NEBBYOLO – A Sicilian Spring Break
Enjoying "unicorn" wines from an ancient fantasy island
In the business of importing and selling Italian wines, there is exactly one question that comes to us from friends, family, clients alike, with roughly the same frequency as Pittsburgh teams losses of late:
So, do you like, get to travel to these places?
Answer: yes.
To be clear, we aren’t flying in first-class pods on all-expense paid junkets footed by some monolithic corporate wine behemoth. We’re a small independent Pittsburgh business that works with similarly small independent wineries in Italy. We pay for it ourselves, write off what we can, cash in credit card points and frequent flyer miles, and sometimes we even stay with the winemakers and their families at their homes. We’re incredibly fortunate to have the extraordinary opportunity both for the professional experience, and the memories made.
Like that stunning photo above, which I took last May. The view is from the vineyards of Tenuta di Castellaro on the island of Lipari, looking east toward Salina. Lipari is the largest of the seven islands of a volcanic Y-shaped archipelago called the Aeolian (AY-OL-EE-AN) Islands, off the northeast coast of Sicily. My heart beats a little faster when it enter’s my mind’s eye – which is daily – its physical beauty is seared into my memory. And my God, the food and the wine … more on that in a sec.
But first, a brief history of an ancient island.
Located about 18 nautical miles from the port of Milazzo, the 34-square mile home of 12,000 people was, per Wikipedia, “created by a succession of four volcanic movements … lasting from 20,000 BC to 13,000 BC [and another] around 9000 BC.” There is evidence of human settlements dating to 5000 BC and in Ancient Greek mythology Lipari was among the landing sites of Odysseus in Homer’s “The Odyssey.” It is still considered an active volcano although there’s been no eruption for a millenia, and the entire island is composed of mineral rich white pomice (which is exported worldwide) and black obsidian.
So all that volcanic soil, blindingly brilliant Sicilian sunshine and balmy Mediterranean winds combine to create ideal conditions for the tightly-planted, hand-trained and harvested grapes that become the organic, vegan wines at Tenuta di Castellaro, which are an elegant compliment to this idyllic setting.
I spoke with Daniele Sassi, the winery’s international brand & export manager for the winery via phone, while he was in Bologna working with the renowned enologist Emiliano Falsini on the blends for the 2024 vintages.
“This is a special place, as you’ve seen, it's like a fantasy land,” he said. “And so we make unicorn wines.”
He elaborated: “Usually from the south of Italy, you expect something full bodied, big structure, something very mature – muscular red wines full of tannins that have to age a lot before you can enjoy fully.
“Instead, in Lipari, these are not wines that you have to wait forever. These are wines that have freshness, acidity, low PH and when you crush the grape, it's just juice, fruit, pulp, because there's a number of other factors that influence the final result.”
Those factors? The four natural elements: Earth, Wind, Fire and Water.
“The terroir is only the archipelago,” he said.
“First of all, these wines are volcanic, from a volcanic soil in a drastically volcanic context. We have active volcanoes around us. So the wind brings these volcanic ash to the vineyards and renew the soil all the time. Plus underneath the vineyard ancient craters of the volcano deliver some smoke coming from deep down in the ground. So this sulfur is like a natural treatment to the vineyard – makes it very difficult for most of the bacteria. The third element is the water. These are island wines that are a bit salty, a bit brackish, with a really mineral profile.
“And last but not least, we're not using many international grapes or varieties you find everywhere else, especially two grapes that were recovered and repropagated (Lipari Malvasia and Corinto Nero).
He calls them “contemporary wines, and wines are also very gastronomic,” and can pair as easily with Asian dishes as they do with Sicilian. His ideal pairing: their Bianco Pomice (more on that below) with swordfish and caponata.
Artist Luigi Radici gorgeously designed, contemporary colorful labels (above) pop and reflect the island’s geography, topography and geology.
“You have been there, and can testify because you've seen it and you've seen that it's real, that those are not AI pictures.”
Indeed, the views are so exhilarating, we took hours driving around the small island stopping almost every few hundred feet to let a new vantage wash over us. We hiked the island’s apex to take in the shimmering sea. The small seaport is home to quaint shopping and a stable of excellent restaurants with classic Sicilian dishes, seafood and these wonderful wines.
“It's easy for something so unique like this to become interesting for the wine managers, for the sommelier. It's something that for wine aficionados, wine lovers, that are really looking for something alternative in a world where everyone has tasted everything, these have some of the last undiscovered grapes of Italy.
“I call them unicorn wines because you cannot compare them to anything.”
The same can be said of Lipari.
Allora imports five of Tenuta di Castellaro’s exceptional wines: Bianco Porticello, Bianco Pomice, Ypsilon, Ossodiana & Corinto. You can find some of these in Pittsburgh at Dish Osteria in the South Side, Iovino’s Neighborhood Brasserie in Mt. Lebanon, and Solera Wine Co. in Lawrenceville; and in Erie at Roma’s Italian Kitchen, Oliver’s Rooftop and at Two45 Waterfront Grill.
Experiethe Flavors of Umbria with Culinary Rd.
And for another majestic travel idea, join Chef Justin Melnick of the Pittsburgh Field Club as he and his cohorts of the national Culinary Rd. podcast lead an exclusive culinary tour through the heart of Italy's Umbria region Oct. 12-18. This journey offers an immersive experience into the rich culinary traditions and exquisite wines of the area.
Tour Highlights:
An Exclusive Wine Dinner at Il Capanno, a renowned restaurant located just outside of Spoleto. Aforementioned wine expert Daniele Sassi will feature wines from Allora Wine Group's Umbrian portfolio, with a special highlight on selections from Leonardo Bussoletti's esteemed winery. Bussoletti, who has roots in Pittsburgh, is renowned for his dedication to native Umbrian grape varieties, particularly Ciliegiolo and Grechetto, crafting wines that truly embody the region's terroir.
Cooking Classes: Participate in hands-on cooking classes led by renowned chefs, where you'll learn to prepare traditional Umbrian dishes.
Cultural Excursions: Explore historic towns, visit local markets, and enjoy guided tours of iconic landmarks, immersing yourself in the vibrant culture of the region.
Luxurious Accommodations: Relax in carefully selected accommodations that blend comfort with authentic Umbrian charm.
Reserve Your Spot! Embark on this culinary adventure and discover the essence of Umbria with Culinary Rd. For more details and to reserve your place, please contact Chef Justin Melnick at chefjustinmelnick@gmail.com or visit www.culinaryrd.com/travel. We look forward to sharing this extraordinary experience with you
Please note: Spaces are limited and early booking is recommended.